I wanted to combine Contrast with my normal painting workflow and see how the new paints could be used to improve it. A lot of that is often hidden slightly with traditional painting, especially if its slapped on a bit thicker than it should be. you don’t have to stick at contrast paints! If you slap dark contrast colours everywhere, you’ll need to repaint any overlaps with paint matching your undercoat, and that’s very time consuming, especially if you’ve gone an extra notch on your model by drybrushing or washing your undercoat first. From my perspective, there are two main areas you need to look at to get the most from contrast paints by themselves, and then you can also look at moving beyond contrast paints by adding a little something extra with other paint techniques after contrast too. I then applied a red glaze to a couple more to see effect of washes on top of the glaze. Leadbelcher – now we’re talking amazing coloured metals, with a metallic sheen thing through the translucent paints. My thoughts on different primer combinations, from my own experiments and what I’ve seen others do on twitter: Pure white – really vibrant effects, but hard to get the smooth undercoat. Can you use a combination of contrast paints and regular acrylics on … Absolutely amazing colours metal effects – using blues over silver for deep cool metallic blues is just fabulous, as are greens for classic chaos warrior effects. Let’s be clear – you apply it as if you were applying a normal base coat, in general. It is designed to separate on the model. Even zenithal priming doesn't really work with contrast. Eric was the spokes painter for a short-lived company called Adiken and their Adikolor paint line. share. Zenithal Priming – I love zenithal priming, and it’s more effective with Contrast than any other paint type! However, an idea presented itself. Since I planned to paint Volfyirion as a fire dragon, I explored a different zenithal scheme. This doesn’t mean I reject using washes over zenithal for my future Sundrop efforts. With only one working eye and trembling fingers, I did not think I could improve my ability above what it currently is. Hair was diluted Gryph Charger gray (this has a green/blue tint but made it stand out a little from the skin). Shake the damn pots properly – contrast, more than almost any other paint, separates like mad. I took a class with him at Gen Con. Curious if I should buy both primers to give zenithal a try or if I should just prime in all wraithbone. Now, I started painting in the 80s when white primers and vibrant colours and pageantry was the order of the day! This post continues a saga I began in an earlier post on the hobby of painting miniature figures. Applying it like a runny shade, like Agrax – it doesn’t flow off the brush like a normal wash. It’s really what its designed to do on the models, so its no surprise. If you are just using contrast paints, remember you won’t be filling that gap with a later wash! If you’d like to get an idea right now, check out this page. If you’re wondering what that last phrase means, compare this image with unpainted minis to this image with painted ones. Zenithal priming miniatures, also called pre-shading, is a method of adding shadow and highlight to a model before painting it. Applying too much – this normally comes because someones either trying to apply it like agrax with loads on the brush, or because they haven’t checked into how to apply contrast and have taken the “One thick coat” line used when discussing it literally. ... Zenithal Priming is a method of priming where you use three colors instead of just one. Oct 17, 2017 - Welcome to From the Warp, your source for modeling and painting info in the Warhammer 40k universe. Using a spray can or airbrush with a bright color, usually white, you spray directly downward onto a dark-colored model. Mechanicus Grey/Halfords Grey – muted colours, and the highlights aren’t as crisp, but we’re right in the colour tone for standard painting over black undercoats now. Was it all hype? Your email address will not be published. Zenithal, meaning “located at or near the zenith”, is all about painting from above. The colour in the pot is way off! Brilliant! You can thin with contrast medium. Close. I went with a black/grey/white zenithal prime using my airbrush. Apply extra edge highlights to increase the colour contrast and make hard edges pop even more! You apply black, grey, and white primers in a way that creates a gradient effect adding depth and shading to your base coat. I love painting with contrast paints. All of the following examples are contrast paints over tan zenithal. But although wash-over-glaze is a perfectly valid technique, I wanted to see what I could do with just the Sundrop approach: wash-over-zenithal. But you don’t have to use Wraithbone. Using Zenithal Highlighting with Contrast paints to speed/batch paint Japanese WWII soldiers? Given this result, I knew I was going to run more tests using autumnal colors. You’ll apply black, grey, and white primers in a way that creates a gradient effect from the shadows to the upper most areas. Next, the choice of colour will make a massive difference, and can deal with one of the constant criticisms of contrast paint I hear. Add water, and it stops being contrast, and turns into a very expensive runny glaze. hide. Contrast is designed to work over a light undercoat. That doesn’t come to us naturally. Think of Retributor as a metallic Wraithbone, with warm metallic notes shining through. Add a few details in over the top of bigger contrast areas, like buckles or buttons with normal paints. I primed the model with some Mechanicus Standard Grey before spraying Grey Seer from above to create some subtle zenithal highlights. Zenithal Contrast Paint. If you get a grainy undercoat, the contrast paint will lock between the grains and you won’t get any sort of decent shade at all, regardless of the colour. Honestly, though I love contrast … you can really improve your minis with a few extra touches. If you don’t keep the brush fresh, your accuracy will get hammered quickly. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Posted by 7 hours ago. While more nuanced, it’s roughly the equivalent of using a bright white primer, using vibrant layer paints, then putting a light coat of a sepia wash like Agrax Earthshade on it. I’m sure you’ve guessed the answer: I’ll have to test on more Dwarf Brewers. An initial wash of nuln oil can add extra depth while keeping that cooler, tone and the crisp highlights. They are a really good consistency straight out of the pot, and apply like a paint, rather than running everywhere like a wash or shade. When I switched WordPress providers, many of the pictures did not import properly. There’ll be a follow-up post with more contrast paint examples. I would say, however, I think it works better going from grey, through off white, to pure white, rather than going all the way up from black – the black ends up with odd dark edges that don’t look right to my eye. 1. 5 minutes before applying the paints can save you hours of touching up later. I chose this mix because I wanted the red to be translucent enough that it wouldn’t completely override the zenithal effect. It’s a simple method: zenithal prime a mini, apply a wash for contrast, and you’re done. In this video, Jay tries the New Contrast Paints over a zenithal priming. Retributor Armour – More coloured metals! and don’t have much use for them. If you click on the Tainted Grail and Etherfields links, you’ll see how elaborate their minis are. Oh, and if you put a few areas of different primer on your contrast lids, then cover it with that contrast paints, you’ll know what it’ll look like. Don’t skip over this step and be very mindful of what you choose. I mean, if you’re cash strapped or lazy you can get away with using 2 colors, but 3 gets best results. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. After priming the model (Son on Onimos, Rackham) i do start painting the base colours up to the model, already thinking myself into the light situation (zenithal) and bring the areas affected by light up to the model with a brighter tone. The Awaken Realms Kickstater pages offered to paint the minis for you, using a technique they called Sundrop; Aella13 calls this pre-shading and Vince Venturella calls it sketch style. Well, for the contrast paints to flow properly, the primer has to be smooth. This means that for the majority of the game, you are looking at the miniatures from above. A product made for n00bs? Zenithal highlighting is another approach to highlighting a model that gives it a completely different look and feel. Contrast paints use a range of different pigments in a different medium that are designed to separate out, with the darker pigment being drawn into the slower drying recesses as the liquid contracts. Cracking! Having said that … I think there are a lot of painters like me, who wouldn’t class themselves as top end painters, but are struggling to get the most of out Contrast. Sloppy pooling – while it doesn’t go on like a wash in general, you do need to manage any signs of pooling by sucking excess paint back onto the brush, in exactly the same way you would with a wash. And it dries faster than a wash, so you need to manage pooling faster. Painting 201: Zenithal Priming or how to shade & highlight like a boss by Powerfisted.com. I applied a tan zenithal to all my remaining Dwarf Brewer minis. So, what was the point of using a contrast paint? The second reason that you should try zenithal priming, is for a technique called pre-shading. It makes it appear as though the model is being lit from a light source directly overhead of the model. I have used Zenithal priming with some success, I think the 2 step rather than the 3 step process is fine as you have illustrated. The new Citadel contrast range of paints are a pleasure to work with, and are now my “go to” paints when dealing with any rank and file troops, you simply cannot bear an average of 5-10 minutes per figure and will result in many boxes of minis actually … For me, applying paint quickly and neatly enough is fun, and because I see the model come to life without the “this looks terrible stages of base coats and highlights”, it maintains my interest painting the same colour over larger numbers of models. Zenithal Contrast Paint. Since I wrote that post, a new element entered the picture: I pre-ordered two more games with miniature figures: Tainted … Required fields are marked *. Paints being applied over primer all react a bit different. Again, careful planning reduces the clean up. It may not be clear from the pictures, but the contrast paints’ colors are richer than those of the washes. I rather like that. What do you think of the New Contrast Paints so Far?To Help Support Jay, Che: 17. zenithal Priming is priming your model with 3 colors instead of just 1. The color theorists are right! And that includes your mould lines, stubs from sprue cuts, and everything else. If you don’t paint minis, the quick summary is that, for newcomers to the hobby, they can accomplish a single coat what would otherwise involve a basecoat+wash+drybrush. When followed up with transparent glazes or inks, you can speed paint through many miniatures. ... Cover the parts of the model that will end up white in Apothecary White Contrast paint. I feel this is okay to do, because I have no soul. Has anyone tried zenithal priming with grey seer and wraithbone? I have a gaming store opening up near me that's going to run a Konflikt '47 escalation league geared towards helping beginners learn the game and they are running a deal on the starter sets and plastic kits. Zenithal highlighting when priming is to use the lighter color more on areas that would be exposed to the light, and more of the darker primer on shaded or recessed areas. Interestingly, I find Contrast works better for me with a squirrel hair brush than the traditional sable, though both work just fine. The Awaken Realms minis are beyond my skill to paint, even with the watercolor-like approximations I applied to the Mysthea minis. Well, it was worth it just to see how it would fair over straight zenithal priming. The basic method starts with priming the model black. Do one arm and check it over before moving onto the next, for example, rather than trying to cover both arms and legs in the same colour before checking it. And the end result: I'd also suggest taking some pictures of the figure after the zenithal priming to use as a reference once you start painting just in case you put the paint on too thick and need a reminder of where the light and shadows are in that specific area. Painting 201: Zenithal Priming, or how to shade & highlight like a BOSS. Third …. With the contrast paints, even the newest painter should be able to get a nicely painted group of minis on the table without that mountain of stress. Wraithbone – awesome vibrant colours with a warm hint. I tend to fall for this one myself still! Something you could probably achieve with the white and black Contrast paints. You may want to view the old site’s post instead. When you are playing a board game, chances are you are sitting at a table. That means if you structure your painting from light paints to dark, being increasingly careful, you can really minimise any need to do any cleanup at all. 3 comments. I also have some pictures of the same approach with non-Dwarf non-Brewers. Apr 23, 2020 - “Here’s the tutorial for dark skin using Contrast! really takes this up a note to make it really pop. But it isn’t that hard! Zenithal Priming is priming your model with 3 colors instead of just 1. This is, I believe, by design. Always try the colour out before using it in anger or you can be very disappointed. While more nuanced, it’s roughly the equivalent of using a bright white primer, using vibrant layer paints, then putting a light coat of a sepia wash like Agrax Earthshade on it. Therefore, my conscience demands that I mention that I get a tiny pittance if you click on the Amazon product links and purchase something through them. An initial wash of agrax can add extra depth while keeping that lovely warm tone and crisp highlights. If you don’t know about zenithal priming, I won’t go into it here, but look it up – its a fantastic technique. Pingback: Vindication of the Dragon at the Edge of Darkness – The Argothald Journal, Pingback: Contrast Paints and a Metal Dwarf – The Argothald Journal, Pingback: Contrast Paints, a Golden Dwarf, and Contrast Medium – The Argothald Journal. Understand your paints before you apply them. Let’s get the condescending part out of the way. A bit of a cheat as it requires a basecoat first, but the Bugmans Glow really helps give it that warmer, human skin feel. There will be loads more ways to add to models painted with contrast and to use contrast to improve your overall painting. I even make sure my brush is pretty dry every time I clean it off. The how told sold with the paints used the glazing technique. Running just slightly over gives you some lovely recess shading with minimal work, but just requires a light touch. If you want to thin the contrast down for a lighter colour, use contrast medium. save. There are light blues that seem too light and washed out but work brilliantly for tau skin, and magos purple seems designed for Genestealer Cultist flesh tones, not a deep purple. Darker contrast paints cover light ones really well!! An initial drybrush of wraithbone or Grey Seer depending on warm or cool notes will bring those highlights up really crisp while preserving the more muted vibrancy of the colours in general. You need to forget that with contrast paints, apply them carefully, and go from light to dark to maximise the effectiveness. Going back to Etherfields, I found a video of someone painting Etherfields miniatures. New post: My Thoughts On Playing 8th Edition Warhammer 40k by, New post: Contrast Paints â Maximised! Some paints give a much more washed out effect than others. To my pleasant surprise, the answer was no. They’re supposed to be easy to use: just slop the paint over white primer and you’re done. Since I wrote that post, a new element entered the picture: I pre-ordered two more games with miniature figures: Tainted Grail and Etherfields, both published by Awaken Realms. 34 He had used spray primer to zenithal prime the figures. I knew from Icaion’s Kickstarter campaign that painting those minis would test the limits of my skill. 'Free Your Models - Contrast' paint range -- In stores June 15th, color charts and video pg. Learn how your comment data is processed. Synopsis: The painter (who is far more experienced than I am) spent a long time painting one of the figures in detail (the mini on the right in the video’s preview image). Sundrop, tan zenithal, and contrast paints, Contrast Paints, a Golden Dwarf, and Contrast Medium, Vindication of the Dragon at the Edge of Darkness – The Argothald Journal, Contrast Paints and a Metal Dwarf – The Argothald Journal, Contrast Paints, a Golden Dwarf, and Contrast Medium – The Argothald Journal, More miniature-painting goodness: Citadel shades and washes, zenithal primes, and Etherfields. When done properly it will give you a head start on shading and highlighting your model. Thinning with water – this is a major no no, and the contrast paints won’t flow right at all. If you start with a grey primer (like halfords grey primer, or mechanicus grey), you get a fantastic muted effect that looks a lot closer to the current palette. Enjoy. However, see my discussion of contrast medium below. The first main area for me is metallics (assuming you haven’t done a metallic primer, of course!). Do eyes with normal paints for coverage and control! I mean, if you’re cash strapped or lazy you can get away with using 2 colors, but 3 gets best results. Priming. I’ve ordered some more contrast paints, and Dwarf Brewers to test them on (of course!). To my eye, the mini on the right has the more vibrant color. Well, I are one. I’ll go over my efforts to paint Volfyirion in another mini-painting post. Fourth …. Perfect if you want to come closer to matching existing forces. Saved by Mattmann. If you apply thin layers over the primer layer the paint that you put over the black primer will appear darker than the paint that you put over the white primer. I find a size 2 brush with a decent point is working brilliantly for me generally, but I will happy use a smaller brush for smaller areas. The recesses into which the paint flowed are darker than with the wash, so the raised areas are highlighted more. The plan here was to give me enough initial contrast so that I could then spray a single base color and still get a nice gradient effect. My accuracy stays far higher than doing base coats normally, as I get bored and slop it on when I don’t get that instant result. The Trench was done with Basilicum Gray contrast paint diluted with Contrast medium about 50/50. I didn’t expect much of an effect of Apothecary White over the gray zenithal. Hopefully this gives you a bit of an idea on using contrasts in simple, effective ways to speed up your painting, look effective in different ranges, and look at ways to take it forward too! And you can compensate slightly by adding other types of contrast, like using complementary colours on adjacent areas. Thinner contrast flesh tones can look a little washed out over the sharp white. It worked quite nicely over the black and grey, but didn’t give enough contrast over the white; hence the need to dry brush and add a little wash. If you paint miniature figures, it’s hard to escape the hype surrounding Citadel Contrast Paints. Not cleaning the brush enough – contrast can dry quite quickly, and is thinner than the paint many of use, though we probably should be thinning it more there ð Its important to clean the brush often or the paint can be sucked up and dry at the base of the brush, especially as contrast can dry deceptively fast compared to a wash. Contrast paints almost entirely rely on recess painting, and despite the marketing about “one thick coat” actually apply incredibly thinly, highlighting all the details on the model. In that post, I described how I managed to paint the minis in the game Mystheato a satisfactory level. If you use a dark contrast paint, drybrush it with the primer, then go over it with a lighter colour, you can really get some brilliant effects like light green edges over shaded black models, an amazing effect on Drukhari, for example. If you run a big brush over an area quickly, you’ll end up with areas of primer visible in recesses that haven’t been touched by the brush. #ParentPlayers – the 8th Meet-up, first in 2020! Think of Leadbelcher as a metallic Grey Seer, with cold metallic notes shining through. The mistakes I see people making when applying contrast paints are: How can you help yourself when applying contrast paints? At the end of that post, I looked forward to painting the dragon Volfyirion and the miniatures in Icaion, both from Tabula Games. But shake the pots up well or you get some bloody odd results. This is the paints and primers you need to do this: A black primer (I use Vallejo’s Black Surface Primer) A light gray paint (I use Vallejo’s Model Air Light Gray) A white paint (I use Vallejo’s Game Air Dead White) An airbrush (similar results can be achieved with spray cans, it is just a lot easier with an airbrush) Interestingly, I find one thing many people miss with contrast paints is just slightly overpainting the edges of areas. That means, first and foremost, your choice of primer makes a massive difference to the outcome. I highly suggest you start with a white, off white, or light grey base coat. a really nice trick can be to use a contrast paint more than once for depth, combining it with dry brushing or edge highlighting with the primer colour first to exaggerate the depth of colour from the recesses to the edges. An initial fleshshade gloss wash (or agrax gloss) with a light gold or silver drybrush really takes this up a whole other level for effectiveness. Brilliant! An initial nuln gloss wash or shining silver drybrush (or both!) This definitely doesn’t come across in the photos: The darker contrast paint colors have a sheen to them that makes the surfaces seem almost metallic; the Wyldwood mini looks like it was made of bronze. At the end of that post, I looked forward to painting the dragon Volfyirion and the miniatures in Icaion, both from Tabula Games. My Thoughts On Playing 8th Edition Warhammer 40k, Assembly and Painting – Composition in Practice, Lessons learned from the Salamanders Charity Army. Contrast paints as recommended by GW go straight over their wraithbone primer for a slightly warm vibrant shade. Well, that isn’t happening with contrast – so spending a little extra time on the build will really pay off for the final outcome. This is one of the most popular posts on this blog. The experienced have access to more powerful techniques (blending, layering, etc.) On the flip side, the edges aren’t as effectively highlighted, because the darker grey isn’t as high a contrast in tone with the recesses. I find breaking the application down to smaller sections helps me get better coverage and deal with any issues before moving on to the next. In that post, I described how I managed to paint the minis in the game Mysthea to a satisfactory level. For the inexperienced, they’re supposed to give the visceral thrill of quickly painting a mini. Once dried, a lighter color like gray or white is added from the top, or zenith. I knew I could Sundrop minis fairly quickly, not get bogged down in details, and get the gray off the table. With the way contrast pools in the recesses and runs away from edges, its easy to have gaps between colours. Zenithal Priming is a way to paint your miniatures based on how they are traditionally viewed. This post continues a saga I began in an earlier post on the hobby of painting miniature figures. Miniatures painted with glazes over zenithal priming have good contrast within each area, but can lack contrast between each of the areas. Miniature Painting Painting Tutorial Mini Paintings Warhammer 40k Miniatures Model Paint Warhammer Paint Wargaming Figure Painting Funny School Pictures. If done properly, the zenithal highlighting technique produces a high-contrast miniature with almost no work. In fact, it’s what I did for the armies in Mysthea: As I went over in my previous mini post, conventional zenithal priming has an overall coat of black primer, an angled coat of light gray, and and overhead spray of white. If it’s a delicate area, put it on with a smaller brush. Superb! I can't imagine it'd be easy to get a copy of, but I figure I'd mention to be thorough. Priming and the color you choose is especially important with Contrast Paints. Because the Contrast paints are transparent they are affected by the warmth of the primer underneath and they need a bright primer like white or these two, they will not work on a pure black primer.